🌍 MRP bows out of SAFW, LVMH sells OFF-WHITE and onboards F1

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Hello ,

Welcome back — to the newsletter formerly known as African Fashion Weekly!

• The Fashion Operator is a clearer, wide open reflection of what this newsletter is about and more importantly, who it’s for. I want to inform and empower fashion industry operators who want to operate better — that’s you. Yes? Yes.

• Personally, the AF_ acronym was frustrating me. Almost everything made for African fashion has a name that includes or begins with those two letters; some distinguishing was needed. Old name was fine, but for the vision ahead (still Africa first), this is better.

What do you think? Let me know, preferably in the updated reader survey, if you haven’t taken it yet. URLs will change soon as well; please let me know about any broken links! 🙏 On to the news, and an SA Fashion Week catch up.

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Across Africa

GTCO Fashion Weekend in Lagos is now receiving applications for free retail space at the event - GTCO FSHN WKND

ROOTS: Made in Africa is headed to Cape Town in collaboration with Merchants On Long this November, after a successful run in Accra. The B2B-meets-B2C pop up will feature 6 days of shopping, talks and trade networking from 4th to 10th November.
Disclosure: I’m part of the Lhaude Africa team putting together ROOTS and will be in Cape Town to host the event’s talks. See you there?

SANARA is a new 3 year program inviting young creative industry founders in Kenya (including those in the fashion value chain) to apply for access to tailored and inclusive finance, market-relevant skilling, enterprise support, and opportunities to advance fair and safer working environments and for creatives, alongside the adoption of sustainable practices. - HEVA

Serena Balram is the winner of Allfashion sourcing’s 2024 Young Designers Competition. Answering to the theme ‘Through the Lens of Africa,’ her collection was inspired by the beauty and culture of South Africa’s eastern coastal region, Kwazulu Natal. - LinkedIn

Keith McLachlan has some thoughts on why South African retailers struggle in new offshore markets - Moneyweb

H&M South Africa’s been busy with their Sustainable Production Africa Summit and a kidswear collection for their global Role Models initiative, developed in partnership with Lalela, an NPO that is using art to spark creative thinking and awaken the entrepreneurial spirit in youth from under-resourced communities.

Alongside several presentations on H&M’s sustainability activities and the shared vision for South Africa’s development of a globally competitive, sustainable supply chain, the summit featured discussions on advancing the Retail-Clothing Textile Footwear Leather (R-CTFL) Masterplan, sustainable approaches to textile waste, local manufacturing as an answer to the country’s unemployment crisis, and more.

The limited-edition, locally printed ‘Role Models‘ collection features unisex t-shirts and hoodies with print designs by Lalela students, broadly inspired by the book series written by 11-year-old author andH&M Role Model, Bontle, from Pretoria. All proceeds from the collection will be donated to Lalela, whose after-school arts programs for at-risk children have reached over 55,000 learners at 30 schools.

Catch up on SA Fashion Week

Mr Price is leaving SAFW. This is the retail giant’s last season as retail partner and lead sponsor of the New Talent and Scouting Menswear competitions. The guessing game begins — who’s next?

Mina, a Mozambican brand that has shown at SAFW a few times as part of its partnership with MFW, is officially inviting South African stockists to shop its SS25 collection, "Ashen Rebirth." Founded by Maputo-born Shaazia Adam, Mina makes 90% of its garments ethically in Mozambique using natural fibres like cotton and linen, and collaborates with and empowers local artisans and disadvantaged youth. — Leo SZN.

Lezanne Viviers stunned with a whopping 67 looks that brought a somewhat alien streetwear sensibility into her world of structured, multi-textured art.

Melrose Arch is the new home of SAFW, and offered an experiential program featuring an exhibition and wine tasting at the Melrose Gallery, shopping discounts at 10 stores, and curated window displays. Unfortunately, without extended opening hours, most of these extras were not available in the gaps between the shows.

In memoriam: Albertus Swanepoel | SAFW dedicated the season to the memory of Albertus Swanepoel, the South African designer-turned milliner who took New York in 1989. His designer clients/collaborators included Marc by Marc Jacobs, Proenza Schouler, and Carolina Herrera. His work was worn and appreciated by a broad cross-section of people, from high-end fashion customers to broadway characters. - SAFW

And finally, check out Khensani Mohlatlole’s great take on the shows.

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Elsewhere

LVMH has sold OFF-WHITE to a brand management company in New York - Fashion Dive - and signed a 10-year partnership with F1. - BoF

Nike brought a company legend out of retirement to right the struggling ship as CEO. - Retail Dive

Tyla will headline the return of the Victoria’s Secret fashion show. - Rolling Stone

Hedi Slimane is leaving Céline after 7 years of what the brand hailed as ‘exceptional growth.‘ His successor will be Michael Rider, joining from Polo Ralph Lauren. Rider has been at Céline before, for nearly 10 years working under Phoebe Philo, and exited as design director for ready-to-wear. - Fashion Dive

EssilorLuxottica, owners of Ray-Ban, have extended their smart glasses deal with META by another decade. - Fashion Dive

British Fashion Council CEO Caroline Rush plans to step down in June 2025, after 15 years that included guiding British fashion through Brexit and the pandemic. - WWD

Oxford Street, the famed London high street, is officially planning to ban cars. Its retail activity represents 5% of London’s economic output by welcoming more than half a million visitors every day. - The Progress Playbook

That’s all for today — coming to ROOTS? Want to make a bet on SAFW’s next retail partner? Something I missed about the new name? Let’s talk.

_{PS… it’s October 3rd.}